I already wrote two tops for you (the half double crochet tank and the mesh crop top), so this one is a different design: a granny stripe crop top with a fitted, scooped neckline, wide shoulder straps, and a color-block look in three shades. It is worked as two rectangles in simple granny clusters, so the stitch is easy to memorize and stretches more than plain double crochet. Wear it with high-waisted jeans or a skirt, or layer it over a tee.
Pattern Information
Skill level: Advanced beginner, using chains, double crochet clusters, and simple seams.
Terms: US crochet terminology.
Construction: The front and back are identical rectangles worked flat from the bottom up in granny stripes. The straps are worked straight off the top of each panel. The top is seamed at the shoulders and sides, then finished with a simple edging.
Sizes: S (M, L, XL). Finished bust: 88 (98, 108, 118) cm / 34.5 (38.5, 42.5, 46.5) in. This includes about 2 to 8 cm (1 to 3 in) of ease.
Finished length: About 36 cm (14 in) from hem to shoulder strap seam in all sizes (a cropped length). Add rows to lengthen it.
Pattern note: This is an original design based on the title concept. Stitch counts have been checked, but the pattern has not been physically crocheted or independently tested. Always check your gauge and adjust the hook size or stitch counts before you commit to the full top.
Materials
- DK-weight cotton yarn: cream (main color) approximately 70 (80, 90, 100) g, sage approximately 35 (40, 45, 50) g, and dusty pink approximately 35 (40, 45, 50) g. These are starting allowances, so buy one extra ball if you are between sizes or want to lengthen the top.
- A 4 mm hook as a starting point (adjust to match the gauge).
- Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, and pins.
- A measuring tape, and a blocking mat or towel.
Stitches and Abbreviations
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sc | single crochet |
| dc | double crochet |
| cluster | 3 dc worked in the same space |
| sp | space |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| RS | right side |
The turning chain at the start of each row is ch 3 and counts as a dc. Numbers in brackets give the number of clusters at the end of each row.
Gauge
4 clusters and 8 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in the granny stripe pattern, after blocking.
Gauge decides whether the top fits, so do not skip the swatch. Chain 27, work Row 1 and then 9 more rows of the pattern (see below), and block it. Measure across 10 cm.
- Too few clusters in 10 cm: go down a hook size.
- Too many clusters in 10 cm: go up a hook size.
Cotton relaxes when it is washed, so measure after blocking.
Size Chart
| S | M | L | XL | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished bust | 88 cm | 98 cm | 108 cm | 118 cm |
| Panel width | 44 cm | 49 cm | 54 cm | 59 cm |
| Clusters per panel | 18 | 20 | 22 | 24 |
| Foundation chain | 56 | 62 | 68 | 74 |
| Clusters per strap | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
Before You Begin
The granny stripe is worked in clusters of 3 dc with a ch-1 between them. Each cluster goes into the ch-1 space of the row below, so every row looks the same. Count your clusters at the end of every row. The count must stay the same all the way up, or the edges will go wavy.
Try the first panel against your body before you make the second. Eight rows add about 10 cm (4 in).
Color Sequence
Work in this order: 2 rows cream, 2 rows sage, 2 rows cream, 2 rows pink. Repeat until the panel reaches Row 28. Cut and weave in the ends later, or carry the yarn loosely up the side for 2-row stripes. Change color on the last yarn-over of the final stitch of the previous row.
Front and Back (make 2 the same)
With cream, ch 56 (62, 68, 74).
Row 1: Dc in the 4th ch from the hook (the skipped chains count as the first dc) and in the next 2 ch. Ch 1, skip 1 ch, 3 dc in the next ch. Repeat from * across until 1 chain remains, then dc in the last ch. Turn. [18 (20, 22, 24) clusters]
Note: this row produces clusters of 3 dc, with the first and last half-clusters at the edges counting as clusters.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), 2 dc in the first ch-1 sp. Ch 1, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp. Repeat across to the last ch-1 sp. Dc in the last ch-1 sp, then dc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. [18 (20, 22, 24) clusters]
Rows 3–28: Repeat Row 2, following the color sequence above. [18 (20, 22, 24) clusters per row]
Do not fasten off.
Straps
Work the straps directly onto each panel.
Right strap: Ch 3, 3 dc in the next ch-1 sp. Work 4 (4, 5, 5) clusters in total, turn, and repeat in the same way for 8 rows. Fasten off with a long tail. Leave the center clusters unworked for the neckline.
Left strap: With the right side facing, skip the center clusters (10, 12, 12, 14), then join yarn and work the left strap the same way. Fasten off with a long tail.
Note: the strap length of 8 rows measures about 10 cm (4 in). Adjust it so the shoulder seam sits comfortably on your shoulder.
Assembly
- Block both pieces. Pin each panel flat to the measurements in the size chart, spray lightly with water, and let it dry completely. Blocking makes seaming much neater.
- Shoulder seams: Place the front and back panels together with right sides facing. Use the long tails to sew the top edge of each front strap to the matching back strap, using mattress stitch or a loose whip stitch.
- Side seams: Seam the sides from the hem up to about 18 cm (7 in). The rest of each side is the armhole.
- Weave in all ends.
Edging
Work one round of single crochet around the neckline and each armhole to give a neat finish.
Neckline and armholes: Join cream at a shoulder seam. Ch 1, sc evenly around, working about 1 sc per row end along the straps and 1 sc in each stitch along the bottom of the neckline. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.
Optional hem: Join cream at a side seam, ch 1, and work 1 sc in each foundation chain around the hem. Join and fasten off.
Note: the edging counts depend on your tension. If the edge ripples, skip a stitch here and there. If it pulls in, add one.
Finishing
Wash the top gently in cool water, press out the water in a towel without wringing, and lay it flat to dry. Cotton stretches when it is wet, so do not hang it up.
Practical Tips and Troubleshooting
The edges are wavy. The cluster count changed along the way. Count at the end of every row, and mark the turning chain with a stitch marker.
The fabric feels stiff. Go up half a hook size, or crochet a little more loosely.
The top is too tight. Make the next size up, or go up a hook size. Always check gauge against the chart.
The straps slip. Use a smaller hook for the strap rows, or make them one cluster wider.
The color changes look messy. Change color on the last yarn-over of the final stitch, and weave in the ends along the same color.
FAQ
Can I use acrylic or cotton blend yarn? Yes. Check that it is DK weight and re-check your gauge. A blend has more stretch than pure cotton.
Can I make it longer? Yes. Add rows in groups of 8, which add about 10 cm (4 in), and buy more yarn.
Can I use one color? Absolutely. A single cream or black top looks modern and clean.
Do I need to block it? Yes, it is recommended. Blocking makes the seams neater and sets the size.
More Free Crochet Patterns
- Easy Crochet Top Pattern for Beginners
- Easy Summer Crochet Top Pattern (Mesh Crop Top)
- Free Crochet Table Runner Pattern (Shell Stitch)
Save This Pattern
Pin this Easy Crochet Crop Top Pattern to your Pinterest board for your next wearable project. Happy crocheting!
